Tyn Y Simmde - a heavenly Welsh Holiday cottage

We've booked many holidays with Under The Thatch over the past few years and stayed in some incredible properties.  They never disappoint.

But there's only one place we've been back to more than once and that's Tyn Y Simmde (or Gwel y Mynydd as it can be found on the website) in the heart of the Coed Y Brenin forest in Snowdonia.  I booked to go back there for February half term way before Christmas, and because I screwed up on the booking (I totally forgot I'd only paid a deposit and not the full amount) when I got an email on Boxing Day to say my booking had been cancelled, I actually cried.  Real tears. That's how much I was looking forward to going back.

But fear not, Under The Thatch were brilliant (even on Boxing Day!) and sorted my error out and reinstated my booking.

This place truly is a piece of heaven.  A totally secluded, traditional stone cottage set within the Coed Y Brenin forest park.  You could easily spend a whole week here and not see another soul if that's what you wanted.

Spot the cottage in the centre of the picture - not a soul in sight!

Living in a town and being surrounded by neighbours left, right, front and back, the biggest luxury for me is privacy.  You can stand and look out from the door and literally not see another house for as far as the eye can see.  At night, you can spot a few lights from properties way over in the distance across the valley, but that's about it.  Set back, away from the road (if you can call it a road, compared to roads at home it's more of a track), not even the postman will come up to your cottage while you stay.  You can go to sleep with the curtains wide open and wake up to the glorious sunrise and the mist rolling in off the mountains.  Or you can lay in bed and gaze at the millions of twinkling stars that are free to dance in the sky with no light pollution.

At night you'll find absolute silence, apart from the gentle babbling of the stream which provides fresh mountain spring water to the property and maybe the strange, distinctive 'coughing' noise of the deer.

During the day the only noise you might hear is the occasional RAF planes practising spectacular exercises overhead.

As a family it's great to have so much space and freedom, not having to worry about how much noise the kids might be making - although if they pipe down you'll be treated to frequent visits from the woodland birds to the garden feeders including the woodpecker who appears daily.  You may also catch a glimpse of a deer or two venturing down from the forest.

There are numerous woodland walks to follow straight from the front door, and folders of maps and instructions provided in the house will guide you to the best sights.  You can walk from the cottage to abandoned gold mines (this area used to be highly productive and the royal wedding rings for Prince William and Kate and Charles and Diana came from these parts).  You can head out from the cottage to spectacular natural waterfalls, secret fairy-tale woodland dells and the plunge pool, or scramble up from the forest path on Moel Hafodewen about 1.5 miles from the house to the secret pool and take a dip if you're feeling brave (it's so remote a certain someone managed a skinny dip but I'll spare you the photos!).  Coed Y Brenin is also the mountain biking mecca with tracks for all abilities right up to the black run known as as The Beast.

If you drive towards Dolgellau then I thoroughly recommend the Precipice Walk. It will give you spectacular views and photo opportunities with very little effort!  It's not nearly as scary as it sounds, we did it with our 6 year old and our dog and it was fine, although we were chasing round to beat the sunset - I don't recommend you set off less than 2 hours before dusk!

Dolgellau is the nearest town and it's about 10 minutes drive away.  Here you'll find plenty of amenities including banks, cafes, shops, chemists, butchers, bakers and a reasonable sized Euro Spar supermarket.  You should definitely pop into Robert's tea rooms while your there.  A stunning former ironmonger's, they have retained lots of the original shop fittings and display a myriad of teas and coffees on the wooden pigeon hole shelving behind the counter.  Try to get a seat in the old cash office if you can or up at the high bench which still has the brass measuring ruler and the stock drawers below.  They offer a wide menu of drinks, cakes as well as breakfasts and lunch - fabulous gluten free cake too.  Just don't do what my Old Man did and accidentally order a 'full English' - you might get lynched!

The Tafarn Y Gadar tapas bar in Dolgellau is also well worth a visit if you don't fancy cooking.  It's a relaxed, informal restaurant with great service, delicious food and really friendly staff.  We've been a couple of times including on Valentine's evening and had great meals.

For adventurous hikers staying at Tyn Y Simmde you're not far from the magnificent Cadir Idris and of course Snowdon itself is within easy drive.

There are beautiful beaches within 30 minute drive - the beach at Barmouth is more traditional seaside with cafes, slot machines and bucket and spade shops, or you could start at Fairbourne which is less populated, just over the harbour and take the little ferry boat across.

Harlech is a little further away and we've always found to be pretty empty at half terms and you can enjoy miles of uninterrupted sands and shell collecting under the gaze of Harlech castle. 

A little further again, but still only around an hour's drive you'll find Portmadog and Criccieth.  They are all worth a visit.

If you visit Fairbourne then you must seek out the secret blue lake hidden away between Fairbourne and Arthog.  The purest blue water you'll ever see, this is a truly magical place.  A steep walk up a footpath off the main road with spectacular views across the bay along the way. Then carefully walk through the short tunnel, bowing your head before it opens out to reveal azure blue water in this old slate mine - so pure and clean it looks like a swimming pool. 

Back to the cottage itself.  It's well equipped with everything you'll need for your stay.  The kitchen has an electric cooker, microwave, fridge freezer, coffee maker and a washing machine which is a godsend for wet and muddy clothes.

There's a small bathroom upstairs with a great shower, perfect for blowing away the cobwebs, but there's no bath.  The compensation for a small bathroom is two large bedrooms - one double and one twin.  The rooms have been switched around since we last stayed, so if you're tall watch out for the beam in the master bedroom!  The beds are deliciously comfortable with white cotton linen and traditional welsh wool throws but best of all, they each have an electric blanket - perfect if you're staying out of season, as you can slip into bed and soothe your tired muscles from long walks as you drift off to sleep in the warmth.

Each room has an electric radiator which is on a timer so the cottage is always cosy.  There's a gas fire in the open plan living area by the dining table for instant warmth and a real wood burner in the sitting room area.  Starter logs, kindling and firelighters are provided which should last you a few evenings. The stone walls are at least a foot thick and with modern double glazed windows we've never felt cold here.

photo credit: Tyn Y Simmde

The downstairs is open plan making it perfect for families, and the sitting area is arranged with two comfy sofas opposite each other with a large coffee table between.  Sprawl out here in the evening in front of the fire with a glass of wine and the coffee table littered with books, magazines and newspapers - heaven.

There's no TV (a plus for us) but there is a good wifi signal in the house.

The owners welcome up to two dogs - we brought Ella's bed and she settled down straight away.  If you have a dog, you can't really come to an area like this and leave them at home.  She loves it here as much as we do.

Outside there's a garden table and chairs if you fancy alfresco dining - you will not find a better view to enjoy with breakfast or lunch. There's plenty for kids to explore including the original pig sty - just don't let them climb on it as it's due some refurbishment.

I can't recommend this place highly enough.  If you're looking for a place to unwind, switch off and get back to nature, with huge lung-fulls of fresh air, then this is the cottage for you.

What to take with you:

Walking boots and a sense of adventure.

What not to take with you:

Bedding, towels, bubble bath and the TV guide!

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